Crickets, dubia roaches, frozen mice, hornworms — which feeders your reptile needs, how often, and what it costs each month.
Reptile nutrition is more complex than it first appears. The species, age, and individual animal all determine what should be fed — and getting it wrong leads to nutritional deficiencies, impaction, and shortened lifespans. Here's the practical guide.
| Feeder | Best For | Nutrition Profile | Cost (online, per 100) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Dubia Roaches | Most insectivores; ideal staple | High protein, moderate fat, good calcium ratio | $12–$20 |
| Crickets | Wide variety of species; good variety feeder | Good protein; gut-load dependent | $6–$12 |
| Mealworms | Occasional treat; older leos and skinks | High fat; poor calcium:phosphorus ratio | $5–$10 |
| Superworms | Larger reptiles; adult beardies, monitors | High fat; good for weight gain | $8–$15 |
| Hornworms | Hydration; picky eaters; treat | High moisture, low fat — excellent hydration feeder | $15–$30 (per cup) |
| Waxworms | Treat only — highly addictive | Very high fat; nutritionally poor as staple | $6–$12 |
| Silkworms | Great all-around feeder; chameleons love them | High protein, low fat, good calcium | $20–$35 (per cup) |
| Phoenix Worms (BSF larvae) | Excellent calcium source; seniors | Exceptional calcium:phosphorus ratio | $10–$20 (per cup) |
| Fruit Flies (D. mel / hydei) | Baby reptiles, dart frogs, chameleons | Moderate; gut-load dependent | $5–$10 (per culture) |
Snakes and some large lizards eat frozen/thawed rodents as their primary diet. Always feed pre-killed or frozen/thawed — never live prey, which can injure your snake and is unnecessary stress for the prey animal.
| Prey Size | Suitable For | Cost Each (online) |
|---|---|---|
| Pinky mouse (newborn) | Baby corn snakes, small hatchlings | $0.75–$1.50 |
| Fuzzy mouse | Juvenile corn snakes, small species | $1.00–$2.00 |
| Hopper mouse | Juvenile ball pythons, medium snakes | $1.25–$2.50 |
| Adult mouse | Adult corn snakes, adult ball pythons | $1.50–$3.00 |
| Small rat | Adult ball pythons, medium boas | $3.00–$5.00 |
| Medium/large rat | Adult boas, large pythons, monitors | $5.00–$12.00 |
Feeder insects are only as nutritious as what they've eaten. Gut loading — feeding your feeders high-nutrition food for 24–48 hours before offering them — is what actually delivers nutrition to your reptile. Crickets fed only grain gut-load are poor feeders. The same crickets fed collard greens, sweet potato, and commercial gut-load powder are excellent.
Good gut-load items: collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potato, squash, commercial gut-load powder (Repashy Bug Burger, etc.)
Dusting feeders with supplements before offering is essential for most reptiles — particularly those without access to natural UV radiation.
| Supplement | When to Use | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Calcium without D3 | Most feedings (4–5×/week) | Safe to use frequently; main calcium source |
| Calcium with D3 | 2× per month maximum (if UVB provided) | D3 is fat-soluble — overdose is possible; let UVB do the work |
| Calcium with D3 (no UVB) | 3–4×/week | Only use if animal has zero UVB access — still provide UVB if possible |
| Reptile multivitamin | 1× per week | Repashy, Herptivite, Rep-Cal are common brands |
If you have multiple reptiles or a single high-consumption species, breeding your own dubia roaches or crickets dramatically reduces cost. A medium dubia colony ($45–$80 to start) can sustain 2–3 adult bearded dragons indefinitely once established.
Get a complete feeding schedule for your specific reptile or amphibian — including prey size, frequency, and monthly cost.
▶ Feeder & Prey Calculator